Friday, May 8, 2009

lay it on the line



as promised, this week i will be continuing the eyeliner discussion and delving a little deeper into types, colors, brands, etc.

so now that we've got the basics down, i hope, the next question is "what kind of liner is best?" sort of a trick question, really. the better question would be, "what kind of liner is best for me?" this will depend largely upon the effort you are willing to put forth. another factor to think about is your eyesight. are you a contact wearer? are you strictly a glasses wearer who can't see two inches in front of your face without them? for a lot of women, time is a huge issue. do you have exactly 5 minutes to get ready in the morning or are you taking some extra time in the mirror to get ready for a big night on the town?

as i mentioned last week, i love a shadow used as a liner. my favorites are mahogany, smoke and navy all by bobbi brown. these are dark brown, dark charcoal and of course, navy, respectively. bobbi also makes a mean liner brush. it's just stiff enough to lay down the perfect amount of product, but also equally perfect to wet and get that wonderfully thin liquid-line if you so desire. a few companies also make a "transformer," which is a type of liquid sealant that you can use to mix with your more soluble shadows to produce a water-resistant eyeliner. some come with their own applicators, but i always prefer to use my own brush that i am comfortable with. sephora, paula dorf, too faced and urban decay all make decent transformers, but smashbox had a great one called off set that i think has been discontinued. (look for it on ebay!) if you are going to go this route, make sure you are purchasing a more water-soluble shadow. mac, bobbi brown and smashbox make some fantastic colors to choose from! and the very best thing about shadow lining is that it need not be perfect. so if you don't have the steadiest hand, that's okay! it's best applied using a "stippling" method anyway – applying in small, short strokes. the look is usually more muted and softer, so a straight, bold line isn't the goal.

i know the allure of the word "waterproof" is strong for many women. i understand. i always envision joan crawford in full-face, dramatic, liquid-lined eyes and red lips, lying by the pool with a martini. in my mind, i'm only on-board with waterproof anything if that is what you are doing with your afternoons . . . lounging in the sun or sand by a large body of water. or if you're just a big crybaby. weddings maybe, but for everyday, i don't really get it. waterproof products, especially on the lashes, make for a more aggressive removal technique which can be a little harsh on that delicate eye area. if you are truly having problems with your eye makeup lasting through the day, try the shadow base i've discussed and look for "water-resistant" products. water-resistant means that it will hold up under similar conditions as waterproof, until you start furiously rubbing your eyes. (but please refrain from doing that.) most of your twist-up type crayon liners are water-resistant, and i will use them from time to time if i'm in a big hurry for some reason. they are fairly easy to use, but as i mentioned in my last blog, they have a habit of drying out before their time. for the money, clinique's quickliner is good and le stylo by lancome is decent as well. however, i find that after i apply them i end up going back over them with a liner brush to smooth the line . . . which reminds me that i should have just stuck with a shadow liner and skipped an extra step. some time saver.

in lieu of the crayon liners, i prefer the cream liner. there are some really great ones out there, and you get the same effect in one step. and these babies really do wear incredibly well. the look lies somewhere between the shadow liner and the liquid liner. you most definitely need a great brush to do this look right. it should be ultra-thin and tapered, but with a little stiffness for precision. if the tip of the brush is too long, it won't be stiff enough. bobbi's gel liners are popular, but smashbox has a great palette right now called proof that contains some unlikely colors that are fun to experiment with. as expected, mac also has an entry with fluidline that includes, what else, rich, jewel tones. since the look is bolder than a shadow liner, a cream liner will take more of a stable hand to apply.

and what about liquid? let me state for the record that i adore liquid liner, but it has its place. liquid liner is a very distinct look – usually bold and/or dramatic. done well, it is strikingly beautiful, but it is best applied with an artistic hand. this means for those of you whose eyesight is sub par, or whose hands would not be well-suited for surgery, stick with shadow lining. liquid liner has to be perfect. it requires the steadiest of hands and an inventive flare. not too thick, or you will end up in the "pit of despair," as i so fondly refer to it. besides, if you're not careful it will look horribly dated. using black is one of those qualities that will date the look; unless you are dark-skinned, try dark brown or charcoal instead. and while we're on the subject of color, i want to encourage everyone to try a color liner paired with their natural, everyday eye shadow. blues and navy are great to brighten the whites of the eyes or bring a beautiful contrast to brown eyes. purples and eggplant contrast wonderfully with green and hazel eyes, and blue eyes will pop with a metallic bronzy-tone. it will bring just enough color to the eye without having to go overboard on your lids with your eyeshadow. and before i forget -- who has the best liquid liner? lancome's artliner, artliner, artliner. nothing tops it.

just have fun with your liner. it's a great thing to experiment with without having to dive head-first out of your comfort zone. my tip for this blog is for cream liner: before it sets, apply your favorite high-shimmer or metallic shadow over it to amplify the look! mix and match your cream liners with different colored shadows for different results. it's great for a fun night out or for that dramatic, smoky eye! but just remember that a liquid or cream liner never looks natural applied to the bottom lash line! and don't forget to store your cream-based products upside down to keep the moisture level where it needs to be -- just don't let it get too hot or you will have quite a mess!

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