too much time on my hands

necessity is the mother of invention. if you are anything like me, and it's quite possible if you are reading this blog, you have a whole lot of makeup lying around that you don't use. oh sure, when you are in the actual business of cosmetics you tend to collect makeup like dust. it's not necessarily intentional, it just happens. but even women who do not acquire their makeup from working for a company can just as easily accumulate without even realizing it has happened. you go out looking for a new shadow, end up with a couple, never use them. like it in the store, hate it home, but maybe you still think someday you could like it again. or you thought you could wear that particular shade of lipstick with everything because in style magazine said so.

sound familiar? i myself have more makeup than i will ever need to get me through the rest of my time here on earth. though i continue to give stuff away and throw out the old, my collection somehow has not gotten any smaller. but like many women i know, you just always think in the back of your mind, "i may have a need for this at some point." just like those jeans in the back of your closet that you haven't worn in a few years – you are positive that you will eventually lose those extra pounds and don them once more! (then when you do lose the weight you just want new jeans.)

hallelujah, this blog today contains some fun ideas for getting around to using your unusables! i was inspired to blog on this subject while searching my endless cache of lipstick for the perfect shade of poppy. i have a special event coming up in which looking flawless is of paramount importance. i knew i had a shade that would correspond beautifully with my outfit, but it was far too matte for this time of year. i also had a gloss i liked, but i definitely wanted fuller coverage. i knew that dior addict made a fantastic shine formula with moderate color, high sheen and not too much sparkle. but $26, plus nearly 10% sales tax and a trip to the mall? i can do better than that. so i did.

as i mentioned, i had several colors i liked, each with their own unique property. unfortunately, none of them possessed all the qualities i was looking for. so i used a toothpick and shaved a little off this one, and a little off that one, and maybe just a smidge off another one and transferred it into a little container. my container? in this case i used an empty bobbi brown eye shadow pan. coincidentally, bobbi brown sells empty pan palettes for a very similar purpose – but mixing isn't usually mentioned as a selling point. these handy pans can be used for all sorts of things! if you can scoop it, scrape it or pour it in there, you'll have whatever you need in a pint-sized container ready at your fingertips. japonesque makes empty palettes in every conceivable size and shape. just think of the possiblities – makeup, toiletries, skin care . . . great investment if you crave portability.

so after a little mixing of products, drag out the hairdryer! the heat should be high enough to somewhat melt the lipstick, but not the container. this is generally why i try and reuse shadow pans; they are typically metal and will conduct the heat more efficiently. voilà! you have your very own shade of lipstick! but don't stop with lipstick. i also like to mix my own eye shadows. it gives a completely different look versus simply layering a color over another color. in this case, of course, you wouldn't be able to melt the product together. but scraping a modest amount of a few colors make a great loose shadow. (for this you may want to rethink the container.) i've also been known to mix a small amount of a clear lip gloss, carmex-type product or eye cream with shadows. presto – creamy shadow or maybe even a new lipstick shade! feel free to mix a lipstick or shadow with a dollop of your favorite moisturizer for a fab cream blush! (cream blushes are beautifully sheer and wonderful for dryer skin!)

got kids? got kids' markers? are they non-toxic? grab a red, pink, or even orange for a quick lip stain underneath a lipstick, gloss or chapstick. don't laugh, i've done this! it shows up much lighter on the lips, and it will stain, but you'll still be able to wash it off when you're ready. sadly, i cannot take credit for this idea. i remember hearing about the band poison using markers when their beloved eyeliner wasn't available before a show. ahh, the eighties. on a side note: do not use marker for eyeliner.

the moral about mixing really is about making it your own. you control the amount, the color and the intensity. make an evening out of it; go through all those products you never use but won't part with and let your imagination run wild. how cool would it be to pull out a signature shade at a party? and keep in mind that a lot of makeup mavens started out this very same way!

you don't know what you've got til it's gone

i'm sure everyone has heard the proverb "the eyes are the windows to the soul." so what makes a window more interesting? window treatments of course! in this case i'm talking about the brows. and it seems that the eyebrow goes through trends just as makeup does -- i've seen bushy and unkempt as well as the super-skinny have their day in the limelight.

having the (mis)fortune of not only being fair-haired but thin-haired as well did not bode well for my brows. i never could rightfully sport the brooke shields "bushy brow," as they were never as such. and they are only barely darker than my hair. in most pictures (without help) they simply disappear. but just because it wasn't a virtual forest up there didn't mean i could go without tweezing. those little white baby hairs that grow all over my eyelid are not tolerated. i was also genetically cursed with down-turned brows with no arch to speak of. this was most distressing as i was told time and time again by professional brow shapers that the only way to achieve an arch was to get rid of the outer half and draw in an arch. i passed on this option because i was always warned that someday i would lose my eyebrows due to age . . . as most of the blonde women in my family had. why would i want to prematurely remove my brow hair? but a part of me never thought it would happen.

until it actually started to happen.

these days i only really have the front half of a decent brow. the rest i am now forced to draw on and fill in after that option had been offered to me many years before. i've become quite adept at this, and i want to pass along some of my favorite products that have become staples in my bag.

rogaine for men. yes, for men. why? well, they say that women who use the men's formula may grow facial hair. (precisely.) apply twice daily with a q-tip to the brows and see what happens. it doesn't work for everyone, but it couldn't hurt to try. the only downside is that it takes so long to see results. and you will definitely see peach-fuzz first, which can be a pain to remove in areas where it's not wanted. the other product i'm currently experimenting with is enormous lash by beauty society. they've recently changed their formula, but if you can get a hold of the older product with prostaglandin, it will be worth it. be forewarned that this is one of the ingredients shown to possibly darken the iris in blue eyes after prolonged use. (probably why they changed it.) the great thing about this product is that it can be used on the brows as well! it's worth a little extra swipe on the lashes while you're at it to see if it works for you. the results are going to be seen much quicker. because i have seen this product work well for many women, it makes me very curious about using latisse, which is getting tons of press. if i had to make an educated leap i would say that it probably works for the brows also.

while waiting for those precious little hairs to come in, there will need to be some cosmetic help in the interim. not that i have anything against the brow pencil per se, but in the hands of most women they can end up being dangerous. the only time it really works is for dark-haired women. many pencils are too dark and it ends up taking more work to finesse it into something natural-looking! conversely pencils labeled "blonde" rarely are. if you are truly blonde it tends to go orange. for blondes, ash blondes and women with white or grey hair i like to use a regular number 2 pencil. yes, the same one you used in school and yes, it will transfer onto the skin. it's just enough without looking orange or too dark.

better than pencils are shadows. bobbi brown makes great shadows that can double as brow fillers. (or liners!) she also has 2 great brushes that can be used to apply – one is the brow brush and the other is the eye definer brush, which is smaller for more definition or a thinner brow. some great colors typically used for the brows are grey, blonde, mahogany, sable, taupe, wheat and even smoke. let a consultant help you decide; just make sure you're not putting a shimmer shadow in your brows! it is good measure to go a shade lighter than your natural hair color, but for blondes it may work better to go a shade darker. if you have thinner hair and petite features, you'll want to stay more subtle with the brows. those women with lots of thick hair or more pronounced features can get away with a stronger brow.

once you've filled in you'll want to seal it. the more expensive lines all make a product to achieve this, but in this case cheaper is better! i usually grab cover girl's professional natural lash mascara. it's simply a clear mascara that's great for grooming the brow and protecting the shadow used to fill.

i hope everyone is familiar with the tip for this blog – the shape of your brow – which is information that is imperative when filling in a sparse brow. take a pencil and lay it vertically next to the nose; where it aligns with the corner of the eye is where the brow should begin. keeping the base of the pencil next to the nose, align the other end to intersect your pupil looking straight on; this is where the highest point of the arch should be. next, move the end of the pencil to the outer point of the eye itself; this is where the brow should end.

summer lovin'

i love summer! i love the sunshine, the heat, the fashion, the longer days . . . i could go on and on! i hate wasting any part of my day during the summertime. i feel that it's just too short to waste a single second.

summer means heat, which usually means sweat. i really cannot complain too much; i don't live in a particularly humid climate and it cools down in the evenings. but i come from the midwest where it's not unusual for the humidity to skyrocket to 100% during the summer months, so i totally get it. no one wants to spend a ton of time on makeup that is just going to end up melting away, so i would like to share some time-saving tips and products to get you out the door while still looking fresh and (mostly) guarded against "makeup meltdown."

sunscreen, sunscreen, sunscreen. did i mention sunscreen? this is not the blog for me to repeat what you should already know, so i will keep it simple: please wear sunscreen. i love lancome's uv expert 20 with mexoryl. also great is clarins sun care cream high protection 30, neutrogena's ultra-sheer with helioplex and chanel's uv essential, which is really expensive, but awesome. there are some debates over the effectiveness of mexoryl vs. helioplex technology which contains avobenzone and oxybenzone. both boast a better uva/uvb protection, but conclusive evidence remains to be seen. it should also be noted that there have been rumors of incompatibility with avobenzone and mineral makeup. just remember to reapply often if you are indeed out in the direct sunlight – and a big, fashionable hat and sunglasses certainly can't hurt either!

i've mentioned in my bronzer blog that i love to mix a little bronzer with my moisturizer/foundation/sunscreen. this is a great alternative to foundation in the hot summer months. a little light, oil-free moisturizer, topped off with sunscreen mixed with bronzer and you'll look like you walked straight off the beach!

now, i am aware of special needs from time to time, and i realize that even i cannot leave the house without concealer on most days. this proves rather tricky in standing up to the heat. i normally am not a huge fan of mineral makeup, but in some cases, it can help. (barring any issues with sunscreen containing avobenzone as mentioned above.) bare minerals bisque can moderately hide dark spots and age spots, but a more yellow-based powder (like light or fairly light) should be used to conceal red areas or pimples. a little visine applied to an irritated zit can help quell redness as well. stick foundations also hold up pretty well for spot concealing, but i'll have to be honest in telling you that no concealer is sweat-proof. you could break out the old dermablend, but summer makeup shouldn't look like makeup at all.

skip shadow and liner – it won't last anyway – and brush on a couple coats of your favorite waterproof mascara. and then add the coup de grâce; smashbox o glow and o gloss!!! i love this stuff! i immediately wrote smashbox a letter of gratitude for these products! fabulous! the o glow blush is a silicone-based gel that looks clear but changes to a flattering pink on the skin. it stays put and gives you just the right amount of color. likewise o gloss looks clear but works with your own skin tone to lend just a hint of color that is best for you.

you'll look like the carefree picture of health while enjoying the long, hot summer days – without having to worry about your makeup sliding down your face.

is it just me, or is anyone else thinking about dietrich's face melt from raiders of the lost ark right now?

find the cost of free(dom)

the free gift. oh the madness that statement elicits in makeup mavens. excitement in consumers, terror in makeup artists.

who started this? in my two minutes of research i attempted, i could not come up with a definitive answer, so i'm going to blame estee lauder. and yes, i just said "blame."

in the old days, there was typically a spring "gift," and a fall "gift." gift with purchase, that is. "are you in gift?" "when is your next free gift?" "is there a surprise with my purchase today?" "are you gifting right now?" "what do i get free today?"

how about . . . your products that you paid for? novel idea. no one has ever said to me, "you have spent x-dollars on shoes today – here is your free pair!" (in my dreams!) in our current economic state, i feel like i must address this issue for a number of reasons. it may seem as if i am angry about this and i am simply ranting . . . and i am. but i feel i must share with readers so they may understand what their retailers are going through the next time they stop in for a "freebie." if i had shared this at counter with women in line for their free gift, i may have been burned at the stake.

a lot of makeup artists will agree that the free gift with purchase has ruined the makeup industry. it was a fine idea, in theory, but it's as if they gave an inch and we took a mile. the free gift is an incentive for women to purchase the product they currently use, or seize the opportunity to try something new from the line and receive trial-sized versions of products to take home and hopefully fall in love with. if successful, women were to return to the counter once their tiny sample was exhausted and have to have more! another goal was for women who may be new to the line to be enticed into trying the products since they were receiving products for free. as i mentioned above, there used to be 2 free gifts per year for certain makeup lines. namely, your estee lauder and clinique, elizabeth arden and lancome. there were others along the way, but these were (are) the heavy-hitters. now it seems that some lines are hosting gift time every other month. women now expect something every time they purchase. why would women want to buy when they know if they just wait a month, or go to another line or a different store, they will get something free? so much for brand loyalty; women will always gravitate towards whoever is peddling the free gift.

well, not totally free. because what's free anymore? sorry, but you do have to buy something to get something. isn't that always the way? and you are correct in assuming that the price to qualify goes up every time. sure it does. why? because the cost of the products go up. you are also correct in guessing that they "make it so you have to buy more than one thing." of course they do! it's called marketing. they take the average cost of the most popular items and adjust the qualifying cost to be about 20% above that price.

one of the many reasons artists loathe the free gift time is due to the overwhelming response by seemingly normal women who suddenly become greedy, blood-thirsty animals. my tips for this blog will include a list of do's and don'ts for gift customers. please feel free to print them out and take them with you.

• do expect to have to wait in line. it's a free gift . . . did you think you were the only one who knew? many companies don't have the budget to hire extra people to help them out just for gift. trust me, they are working their butts off. the gift isn't going to go anywhere, and i've only seen a store actually run out of gifts one time. and they sent more – no one went without.
• don't pick fights with other customers or the artists trying to help because you think you were there first, or because the artist didn't want to help you for whatever reason. remember, always be a lady. it just makes everyone uncomfortable and the only one who will look bad is you. i know it sounds far-fetched, but i saw it at least once a day, every day during free gift time. i never understood why getting a gift always made women so irritable?
• don't bitch about what you are getting in the free gift. it's a free gift!!!!!! it is like finding a $10 bill on the street and then complaining that it wasn't a twenty. some common issues i hear about are: "the colors never work for me," or "i can't ever use the skin care." they choose the products in the gift based on popularity and/or to introduce a new product into the line. and if you can't ever use the products, why are you buying them in the first place?
• do pre-sell if offered. i think most all stores participate in this now, and it does help in the long run. there is a surge of buying during gift and naturally they will run out of your product! if you are given the opportunity to "reserve" your purchase beforehand, take it. it will save everyone a lot of heartache when you come back asking for something that they have run out of. just thinking of the all the "fits" i have seen thrown over being out of stock on something during a free gift sends shivers down my spine.
• don't ask for more than one gift. the rule is always "one per customer." trust me, they know women come back and make several purchases, and they are ok with that. but just blatantly coming out and demanding more because you spent more just makes you look cheap and greedy. most stores will split up your purchases so that you may do this.
• do know what you want. don't bogart your artist for an hour while waffling over what to buy or ask for a makeover while there are several other women waiting to pick up their free gifts. there will be a better time when gift is over for you to come back and get special treatment. but don't make everyone else suffer while you are trying to make up your mind. have a game plan and stick to it.
• finally, don't come back after gift and return the product you bought but keep the gift. really? some stores won't allow this any longer and i cannot begin to tell you how cheap it looks. i always had a lot of women tell me they stock up just to use the free gifts to give as gifts to other people. wow. (psssst – everyone knows you got it for free.)

enjoy getting the gift, i mean, they can be kind of fun. but just don't end up getting bent out of shape about it. if you just can't keep it together for some reason, order online. chances are they will have what you need in stock and you won't have to deal with the hoards of crazed women waiting for an excuse to unleash the fury over a bag of free samples.

the bronze lyrics

i love the skin cancer campaign, "pasty by choice." equally i think the phrase "pale is the new tan" isn't used nearly enough. as if born unto vampires, i myself sport that "porcelain" look. "by choice" is a strong statement; if i had my way i would be a dark, sultry goddess. more like, "pasty for my longevity." but i appreciate the banning together of the non-tanners who revel in their lack of pigmentation in order to prolong their lives and warn others of the dangers of the sunburn.

porcelain can indeed be beautiful; the only hitch is to be its most beautiful it should also be flawless. it is most definitely true that the darkness of the shadows hide the cold, hard truth. in other words, being tan helps to hide our imperfections. and you know what else? you can get away with wearing a wider variety of colors and not have people ask you "are you feeling okay today?" i know i'm not exactly making a pitch to stay out of the sun, but as a recovering tanorexic, i implore you to be diligent with the sunscreen. it is the key to slowing the aging process of the skin, after all. and i am here to testify that no amount of concealer is going to cover up wrinkles and those awful dark spots that arise from hyperpigmentation due to overexposure and sun damage. even if you choose the cosmetic surgery route to reverse this damage, your skin will never look and act the same as it once did. and you can forget about ever seeing the sun again after a hefty chemical peel or laser treatments.

so what to do? unless you've been residing in a cave, (and if so, you would never have to worry about sun exposure!) i'm sure you've heard of some new-fangled products called self-tanners and bronzers. today i'm going to focus on the bronzers. i love a good bronzer. it can instantly lift you out of the pale doldrums into a healthy glow. the best thing about a bronzer is that you're not stuck with it. you don't like it, wash your face. no commitment. it will stain your clothing though, so use a little bit of caution in that area.

as a big bobbi fan, it's no surprise that i use her all over bronzing gel every day of my life. i will choose a gel over a powder every single time! it really just doesn't get any easier. all you do is mix a little dollop in with your daily moisturizer. that's it! seriously, there is zero work or skill involved here. and what makes this better than your tinted moisturizer, (which are never as great as your souped-up versions of moisturizer) is control of color. you make the call. you decide which moisturizer you want to use, and how much bronzer you want. in addition to ease of use, it also doesn't get more natural than a gel. a lot of the gel bronzers have a little more red than most of your powdered bronzers. i find that this yields the most natural look. too many powders go oompa-loompa orange. and it doesn't help that a lot of women are getting their bronzers in shades that are far too dark for them. it ends up looking like dirt. and oily skin women beware: oil makes powder change color – usually darker. so what happens when that oil starts mixing with your powder bronzer during the day? tennessean dirt. some others i like a lot are: clinique's non-streak bronzer, (which is quite cost effective since they market this towards men) lancome's flash bronzer instant bronze glow, and clarins' radiance-plus self tanning cream gel or self-tanning instant gel. in the case of clarins' bronzers, you are committing to the color. but clarins makes superb tanning and sunscreen products . . . and they smell pretty decent in comparison.

if you are going to use a powder anyway, i really really like clinique's blended face powder in transparent bronze – for a few reasons, actually. first of all, at $19 it's a great bargain. this stuff will last forever! if you are already a loose powder user, you know how far it goes. so imagine mixing in a little of this stuff in with your regular stuff – we're talking about this lasting you for possibly a couple of years! i typically tap out a very small amount in the cap along with my regular powder. using this method per use ensures complete control of color. and besides the fact that it's a great deal, lasts a long time and is easily mixed with loose powder, it's also translucent, has a hint of iridescence and a tad more red. perfect for any skin tone. and if you still choose to wear a pressed powder, simply brush a little of this on top for a sun-kissed look.

my tip for this blog is applying a powder bronzer. you definitely want a brush that is made for this purpose. most are wide and blunt, some are a little fluffier and more rounded at the top. the fluffier brush will lay down a little less color, while a blunt, concentrated brush will lay down a lot more over a larger area. personally, i prefer a fluffier brush . . . always easier to add more than subtract. really think about where the sun naturally hits you: across the forehead, nose, cheeks and a little on the chin. i like to use the "figure 8" method as opposed to the "w" method, which leaves out the forehead. this means simply brushing a figure 8 on your face – skipping the underside of the nose and omitting the immediate eye and mouth areas. (i also go easy on the hollows of the cheeks.) and not that you necessarily need to cake your neck with bronzer, but just don't forget about it. softly brushing across the neck with the leftover powder on the brush should suffice.

in her prime

though i cannot say with certainty that i knew why you would put a primer down before painting, with the introduction of the foundation primer into the cosmetics world, it does make a little more sense now.

primers are a somewhat quiet presence with mixed reviews and opinions by artists and consumers alike. many consumers feel that it's an extra step, but the ones who have been properly instructed swear by the results. a lot of artists love the idea of a primer, but even i can be very skeptical.

first off, i feel that primer is for a select group of users – though there have been some primers launched as of late that cater to different types of skin. i really like a primer if you have not-so-invisible pores and/or fine lines. fine lines. not deep, ravine-like wrinkles. and not golf ball dimples for pores. in other words . . . it's only going to assist in minor defects. primer is, in essence, a silicon-based product that is going to help smooth out the surface of the skin, act as a barrier and give a little slip under your foundation. even if you don't wear a foundation, per se, it's a nice little, silky item of lingerie for your skin before powder . . . or nothing should you so choose. it does aid in filling in slight imperfections, but don't expect a full-on spackle job.

when women are shown the effects of a primer on the hand in store, they are usually amazed immediately. sure, your hand is full of moirés and textures, so the result is remarkable. but don't be sold hook, line and sinker; you really should try it on the face and wear it all day to be sure. ask for a one-time sample. one day is really all you need to know how it's going to work for you. on some women it tends to break down after a few hours and begins to collect in those fine lines and pores you are trying to fill in. conversely, if you are a drier skin type, a primer is not to be used in place of a good moisturizer.

the best primer out there right now is most definitely smashbox's photo finish. laura mercier is a close second, but smashbox wins just because they have expanded this concept to cater to several concerns. they now make a light, which is oil-free, one with an spf and dermaxyl, (an anti-aging ingredient) a bronzing primer and 3 color correcting primers. though i am dubious of their capabilities to do what they are intended, for the record the apricot colored primer is to even skin tone and counteract discoloration, the lavender is for brightening a dull complexion and the green-toned is used to reduce redness. i'll reiterate: take it home and wear it for a day to see for yourself. but beware of foundation that claims to be a "foundation and primer in one." let me ask . . . how many of you use a "shampoo and conditioner in one?"

my tip for this blog is in the application. less is more when it comes to primer. remember that it is silicon, and think about silicon products for your hair–you only need a tiny bit! better still, concentrate it only in those areas where it will do the most good. and i know i'm a big stickler about letting your moisturizer absorb a little before applying makeup, but this goes double prior to using a primer! if you go slathering a primer on top of freshly moisturized skin it's going to "roll" on you. in fact, you may discover that you need a little less moisturizer to get the job done when paired with a primer. save the "slathering" for bedtime.

back on the stain gang

having somehow always been cast in stage roles in which i am furiously making out with someone, it was always a personal quest to find a lip color as permanent as a sharpie. (cannot be done, by the way.) and yes, i have tried marker . . . just in case you were wondering. to be quite honest, the "magic marker" is not a far cry from the products i would like to discuss this week.

i'm talking about lip stains. or should i say lip "stains?" (insert air-quotes.) be weary of this term while being romanced by so many brands, promises and pretty, shiny packaging. first of all, a true stain should be in a liquid form. anything cream-based boasting the title of stain should be second-guessed. it's really just a dry lipstick, ladies. i'm not going to tell you that some of these products are not wonderful, because a lot of them are. but in the truest sense of the word stain, pass on these for now; these are not the stains you are looking for—move along, move along.

many years ago i fell in love with a little bottle of fruit-scented, blood-red potion by borghese. it was a lot like a bottle of nail polish for all intents and purposes, and you simply painted it on the lips. of course, the consistency was much thinner . . . closer to water. they no longer make this product, but there are some pretty good ones out there that are very similar and easier to use. surprisingly, my latest favorite is from cover girl! *gasp!* you read right; their outlast lipstain is fantastic! don't let the colors fool you into thinking what you see is what you get. when it comes to true lip stains, think back to the days when you drank gallons upon gallons of kool-aid in the summer. same thing. it's going to give to a wash of color. so you can take the color you see in the tube and dial it back considerably. it will only be a tint of that. some of the others worth mentioning are stila's lip and cheek stains, benefit's benetint, urban decay's lip envy, lorac's sheer wash, and if you're lucky enough to still find it, lancome's potion of love. most of these should be available through sephora – who also happens to have an entry called lush flush wine lip and cheek stain.

the very best thing about stains is that they truly do wear like they are supposed to; but as with everything, there is always a catch. don't expect your lip stain to provide hours worth of moisture and conditioning. ain't gonna happen. however, one of the very best benefits of the lip stain is a fabulous foundation for a lip gloss! as an avid adversary of the lip gloss, a lip stain underneath will be my one and only exception every time. like most women, i simply won't wear gloss because it's gone in a minute. i'm definitely not claiming that a lip stain will keep your gloss intact for hours on end, but i am here to tell you that under favorable conditions, it can come close. because at least when that gloss does start disappearing, that stain will still be around to keep you from looking washed-out and naked!

and what about moisture? since it's not coming from your lip stain, there are some measures that should be taken to ensure a positive lip staining experience. stains have a habit of collecting unfavorably in creases, on dried skin, etc. i hate to break it to you, but it is imperative that you start with soft, smooth lips. if you happen to use an exfoliating scrub, try using it on your lips a few times a week to get rid of flakes and dried skin. if you don't have any scrub, never fear – try using a generous amount of vasoline, or any lip balm of choice, and scrub gently in a circular motion with an old toothbrush. works just as well. so now that you've gotten all that dead skin out of the way, your lip balm/lip moisturizer/lip conditioner will work even better! but here's the caveat: you must allow your lip moisturizer to absorb before applying your stain. otherwise, it is not going to stain. since most women apply their lip color last, it's a good idea to moisturize those lips at the same time you're moisturizing everything else. by the time you get around to applying color you should be in good shape!

a stain can provide a great background for all of your favorite glosses and lipsticks too. it's fun to mix and match to come up with variations on your old stand-bys. and my very own personal tip for this blog is about how to keep your lip color fresh for as long as possible. while exfoliating the lips is a great start, just be mindful of your lip color. try and refrain from licking your lips, rubbing your lips together, or shoving large portions of food into your face. i know it seems like a no-brainer, but the biggest enemy of lipstick is rubbing the lips together. use a lip brush to apply your color; you'll get the perfect application without having to "distribute" the color by pressing the lips together. to finish, i wrap my lips around my finger and pull my finger away to remove the excess that can collect on the teeth! better than a tissue – no lint!

lay it on the line

as promised, this week i will be continuing the eyeliner discussion and delving a little deeper into types, colors, brands, etc.

so now that we've got the basics down, i hope, the next question is "what kind of liner is best?" sort of a trick question, really. the better question would be, "what kind of liner is best for me?" this will depend largely upon the effort you are willing to put forth. another factor to think about is your eyesight. are you a contact wearer? are you strictly a glasses wearer who can't see two inches in front of your face without them? for a lot of women, time is a huge issue. do you have exactly 5 minutes to get ready in the morning or are you taking some extra time in the mirror to get ready for a big night on the town?

as i mentioned last week, i love a shadow used as a liner. my favorites are mahogany, smoke and navy all by bobbi brown. these are dark brown, dark charcoal and of course, navy, respectively. bobbi also makes a mean liner brush. it's just stiff enough to lay down the perfect amount of product, but also equally perfect to wet and get that wonderfully thin liquid-line if you so desire. a few companies also make a "transformer," which is a type of liquid sealant that you can use to mix with your more soluble shadows to produce a water-resistant eyeliner. some come with their own applicators, but i always prefer to use my own brush that i am comfortable with. sephora, paula dorf, too faced and urban decay all make decent transformers, but smashbox had a great one called off set that i think has been discontinued. (look for it on ebay!) if you are going to go this route, make sure you are purchasing a more water-soluble shadow. mac, bobbi brown and smashbox make some fantastic colors to choose from! and the very best thing about shadow lining is that it need not be perfect. so if you don't have the steadiest hand, that's okay! it's best applied using a "stippling" method anyway – applying in small, short strokes. the look is usually more muted and softer, so a straight, bold line isn't the goal.

i know the allure of the word "waterproof" is strong for many women. i understand. i always envision joan crawford in full-face, dramatic, liquid-lined eyes and red lips, lying by the pool with a martini. in my mind, i'm only on-board with waterproof anything if that is what you are doing with your afternoons . . . lounging in the sun or sand by a large body of water. or if you're just a big crybaby. weddings maybe, but for everyday, i don't really get it. waterproof products, especially on the lashes, make for a more aggressive removal technique which can be a little harsh on that delicate eye area. if you are truly having problems with your eye makeup lasting through the day, try the shadow base i've discussed and look for "water-resistant" products. water-resistant means that it will hold up under similar conditions as waterproof, until you start furiously rubbing your eyes. (but please refrain from doing that.) most of your twist-up type crayon liners are water-resistant, and i will use them from time to time if i'm in a big hurry for some reason. they are fairly easy to use, but as i mentioned in my last blog, they have a habit of drying out before their time. for the money, clinique's quickliner is good and le stylo by lancome is decent as well. however, i find that after i apply them i end up going back over them with a liner brush to smooth the line . . . which reminds me that i should have just stuck with a shadow liner and skipped an extra step. some time saver.

in lieu of the crayon liners, i prefer the cream liner. there are some really great ones out there, and you get the same effect in one step. and these babies really do wear incredibly well. the look lies somewhere between the shadow liner and the liquid liner. you most definitely need a great brush to do this look right. it should be ultra-thin and tapered, but with a little stiffness for precision. if the tip of the brush is too long, it won't be stiff enough. bobbi's gel liners are popular, but smashbox has a great palette right now called proof that contains some unlikely colors that are fun to experiment with. as expected, mac also has an entry with fluidline that includes, what else, rich, jewel tones. since the look is bolder than a shadow liner, a cream liner will take more of a stable hand to apply.

and what about liquid? let me state for the record that i adore liquid liner, but it has its place. liquid liner is a very distinct look – usually bold and/or dramatic. done well, it is strikingly beautiful, but it is best applied with an artistic hand. this means for those of you whose eyesight is sub par, or whose hands would not be well-suited for surgery, stick with shadow lining. liquid liner has to be perfect. it requires the steadiest of hands and an inventive flare. not too thick, or you will end up in the "pit of despair," as i so fondly refer to it. besides, if you're not careful it will look horribly dated. using black is one of those qualities that will date the look; unless you are dark-skinned, try dark brown or charcoal instead. and while we're on the subject of color, i want to encourage everyone to try a color liner paired with their natural, everyday eye shadow. blues and navy are great to brighten the whites of the eyes or bring a beautiful contrast to brown eyes. purples and eggplant contrast wonderfully with green and hazel eyes, and blue eyes will pop with a metallic bronzy-tone. it will bring just enough color to the eye without having to go overboard on your lids with your eyeshadow. and before i forget -- who has the best liquid liner? lancome's artliner, artliner, artliner. nothing tops it.

just have fun with your liner. it's a great thing to experiment with without having to dive head-first out of your comfort zone. my tip for this blog is for cream liner: before it sets, apply your favorite high-shimmer or metallic shadow over it to amplify the look! mix and match your cream liners with different colored shadows for different results. it's great for a fun night out or for that dramatic, smoky eye! but just remember that a liquid or cream liner never looks natural applied to the bottom lash line! and don't forget to store your cream-based products upside down to keep the moisture level where it needs to be -- just don't let it get too hot or you will have quite a mess!

draggin' the line

in having a discussion with friends about my previous post, i was inspired to talk about liner this week. as i mentioned in my last blog, shadow base is also a helpful product to make your liner wear longer as well -- keep that in mind as you read on.

liner can make your eyes look instantly bigger, brighter and even more well-rested! conversely, it can make your eyes look like deep, dark pits of despair when under a heavy-hand. the best rule to live by: liner should always follow your lash line. always. (i will discuss the rare exceptions momentarily.)

liner, when done naturally, should enhance the line of the lash. who doesn't want fuller, thicker lashes, right? liner can help to achieve this. follow the line from the corner to the outer ends on the top. (i will discuss dealing with bottom lashes later.) this should be fairly self-explanatory without delving into types and colors, which i'll save for another blog.

i know i said to always follow the lash line, but like everything else, there are always exceptions to the rules. just because one or more of these may or may not apply to you, do not feel obligated to adhere . . . most are your garden variety "slide-of-hand" illusions.

1) if your eyes turn downward, whether due to genetics or aging, bring your liner outward and upwards slightly at the outer corners to give the impression of a little "lift."

2) if your eyes are close-set, as in the distance between your eyes is less than the width of one of your eyes, then concentrate your liner towards the outer corners. this gives the illusion of your eyes being further apart.

3) if your eyes are wide-set, as in the distance between your eyes is greater than the width of one of your eyes, then concentrate your liner towards the inner corners. this gives the illusion of your eyes being closer together. (gee, bet you figured that one out all by yourself after the last clue, huh?)

4) my personal tip, as this one applies to me, is for lining when one eye is larger than the other. yes, even you have one of those. everyone does. (whenever you have two of anything, one is larger!) feel free to go just a little heavier on the larger eye. thicker liner makes your eyes look smaller, so the whole point is to make 'em match.

in response to #4, yes, you read correctly. thicker liner = smaller eye. so for all you ladies clinging to your thick, black liner thinking that you are emphasizing your eyes, well you are, but not in a good way. this is the "pit of despair" look i mentioned earlier. stop it! i've said it before; unless you are photographed or walk a runway for a living, let it go. and don't outline that little inner corner of your eye like cleopatra. (remember what i said about following the lash line?) in fact, a theatre trick is to put a little light-reflector there. if you pay close attention to all the models in the print ads, it always looks like they've got a little white shimmer right there in those corners. this makes the eye look larger and more "open." (which is a good thing!) and when i say "concentrate your liner" in a certain area that does not mean stop or start it in the middle somewhere. it should be a gradual blending, just darker or heavier in one area over the other.

for a natural, easy, everyday look, you just can't beat an eye shadow for a liner. of course, i adore bobbi brown's darker shadows for this purpose, but nearly everyone out there makes a dark brown, black or even navy or eggplant shadow. it is best applied with a little bitty, sometimes slanted or angled brush designed precisely for that purpose. and if you've got a quality shadow, you may even feel compelled to wet your brush a little before dipping into the shadow for a more "liquid" liner look. the greatest attribute to shadow lining is the ease of blending and control you have over the application. and with that tiny brush you can really get down into that lash line! it will be so easy for you that you will throw away any pencil liner you've got in your bag of tricks! pencils are hard and they tend to drag along the lid. remember years ago when you would have to use a match or lighter to melt the tip of your pencil? (if you still do that, never admit it to anyone.) hey, if you need fire to apply your makeup nothing good can come of that. the crayon, or "twist-up" types are okay. they wear decently enough, but i find it more difficult to get a nice blend or control of the amount applied from them. and if i had a dime for every woman that complained that her automatic liner broke off or dried up, i would have around $83.60. (you get the picture.) and here's where i bring up lining under the eye . . . don't feel like you have to do it. as long as you're applying mascara to those bottom lashes, you should be golden. it's fine to sweep a little along the lashline for a natural look, heavier for an evening or smoky eye. but a lot of liner on the bottom only makes your eyes look smaller. if you have few or thin bottom lashes, then i would completely advocate "faking" that lash line when mascara just can't do the job.

next week i'll expound upon this topic and talk about actual products and colors; just wanted to lay down the basics first. my tip for this blog, since we're talking about lining, is for the fair and sparse-of-lash ladies. if you have skimpy or light-colored lashes, then you know how you have that "void" on the mucous membrane of the lid where your eyelashes grow. your mascara isn't going to do the job, but you can use a liquid liner or dip your liner brush into your shadow liner and actually go up from under the lashes and fill in that space. very carefully!!!! it will make your lash line lush!

ace of (shadow) base

one of the biggest selling points of most cosmetic products is wearability. i know that isn't exactly a word, but it seems every marketer out there is sticking "ability" onto their products. (i won't name names.) women want to apply their makeup in the morning and be done with it already – without all of this reapplication business or touching up throughout the day. unfortunately, some adjustment in makeup just cannot be helped; but that's for another blog.

however, there is one aspect of your routine that i can offer you some assurance on . . . your eye shadow! i would hear all the time about how a woman's shadow will crease or fade by the end of the day. it's one thing to touch up lips or powder, but no one wants to redo their shadow. this is especially an issue if you use eye cream on the lids in the morning. and i'm not saying that you shouldn't; everyone, and i mean everyone should wear an eye cream! though you should concentrate your eye cream underneath the eyes both morning and night, it could be beneficial to skip the lid in the a.m. and only apply underneath – saving the lid to be moisturized in the evening. this is particularly helpful if you tend to be a little oilier in that area. i will stress for those over 40 to moisturize the entire eye area both morning and night. and please, no more than a pearl-sized drop per eye! it is also important to recognize that the eye area will resist absorption a little more than the rest of the face. so it may be helpful to wait about 15 minutes before applying color to the eye area. take this time to make some coffee, dry your hair, have breakfast . . . whatever.

one of my must-have products is shadow base. now, i realize a lot of women out there are using their foundation for this purpose. i highly recommend against doing this. it will crease on you. it's not designed for the lids, so don't put it there. more than a few companies make this product, but for the money you cannot beat clinique's touch base. it's perfect! canvas is my go-to color for most skin tones, but they also make a lighter version. it's nude and matte, and a little goes a long way. finger application is the preferred method, just make sure you go from the lash line all the way up to the brow.

start out with working a little product from the corner of the eye, then over the lid and upwards toward the brow using short strokes and being careful not to pull or tug the skin forcefully. the eye area is thin and delicate and the first place to show signs of aging. use your ring finger – it's the weakest. another benefit of shadow base is coverage. some women with visible veins in the lid will appreciate how a base will conceal imperfections and give a nice, smooth canvas to work with. most importantly, it gives your shadow something to adhere to. then apply your shadow as you normally would. i typically like to begin with a dusting of a light shadow all over the lid for an everyday look. this helps to "set" the base. and trust me, do not be fooled into thinking that you do not need any type of powdered product to set your shadow base. you most definitely do. if you choose to wear your base sans a powder shadow over the top, it will crease on you. i have seen makeup trends that showcase a "shiny" or "wet" shadow, but it will only look like that for about an hour . . . at best. that look is great for runway or photo shoots, but unless you do either of those for a living, get over it.

there are other shades available in the touch base, including a couple with a little shimmer. up-lighting has been a top-seller for many years, and it's beautiful on a deeper skin tone, or for a smoky base on a fairer skin tone. i also like to use these different shades under different shadows to give a new look to the shadow on top. but i have to suggest that women of a certain age, with a tad more "crepe-y-ness" to deal with, should steer clear of shimmering shadows. (and you know who you are . . . i hope.) all it does is put a spotlight on that dry, lined, droopy lid!

i'm positive that once you have experienced the benefits of using a shadow base, you will never even think about applying shadow without it! it will even help your eyeliner wear all day long! since the product should last you several months, my personal tip for shadow base is to store the container in a cool, dry place upside down! of course, ensure that the lid is tightly closed, but storing it upside down traps the moisture close to the product and helps to keep it from drying out.

give pink a chance

oh bobbi, you make the best stuff indeed! i love your colors, your style, your sensibility!

ladies, take note; if you want functional, practical and classic beauty, look no further than your local bobbi brown counter. even those of you less fortunate with no access to a counter can easily shop online and never worry about getting the wrong shade or a product you'll never use. it simply cannot happen!

of my bobbi products i want to talk about today, this item can make or break your entire makeup job . . . i'm talking about blush. i don't understand how women can overlook this one thing that can literally make you look instantly healthier, fresher, prettier and even younger! i'm not suggesting a big 'ole clown spot of "rouge" smeared on the face, or even that dated '80's "streak" of shimmering plum that seems to reach from the nose up towards the heavens.

blush looks best when applied to the apples of the cheeks and gently swept back so that the majority of the color stays at the apples, yet blends outward. not up to the temples, not down towards the neck. i realize bobbi's blushes may look slightly intimidating at first glance, but not to fear – they look amazing on the skin! some of you may be immediately drawn to those "safe" brown tones or paler mauves, but a little swipe of the brightest of the bunch can make you look like you've spent a week relaxing at a spa! bobbi is big on the "pop of color," and in my experience i couldn't agree more. once you see what it can do for your overall look, you'll feel naked without it.

my absolute personal fave is pale pink. i cannot gush any more about this color! it's simply perfect. most very fair to moderate skin-toned women can wear this blush flawlessly. it's completely buildable, so a very fair complexion may like to use a fluffier brush and a lighter hand, while a darker skin tone can achieve that "glow" with a little heavier application. in the same color family, for a darker skin tone, i may suggest soft pink or peony for a brighter pop.

if pink isn't your thing, (but it could be if you just gave it a chance!) a fairer, warmer skin tone does well with nectar. for those with a little deeper, or olive skin tone, i love apricot for that terrific pop. but those with the deepest of skin tones, don't despair! try poppy or even cranberry if you can handle it!

now i didn't forget all those yummy creamy pot rouges! i love them too! my favorite pale pink is featured as a pot rouge as well, and the color translates wonderfully from its powder counterpart. pot rouge is terrific for a drier skin, as powder can sometimes amplify dryness and fine lines. i prefer to apply my pot rouge with my foundation brush, but fingers work fine, too. i do not suggest a sponge – it's just wasteful and the application leaves much to be desired. pot rouge can also serve as a lip color, but in my experience it can leave you feeling a little parched after a while. it works better as a stain with a gloss over the top.

my personal tip on blush: if you're going to wear a bronzer, sweep it on first then finish with a "pop" of a brighter blush on the apples of the cheeks. for pot rouge wearers: mix a gel bronzer in with moisturizer or foundation, then apply pot rouge and finish with a face powder if desired.