ace of (shadow) base

one of the biggest selling points of most cosmetic products is wearability. i know that isn't exactly a word, but it seems every marketer out there is sticking "ability" onto their products. (i won't name names.) women want to apply their makeup in the morning and be done with it already – without all of this reapplication business or touching up throughout the day. unfortunately, some adjustment in makeup just cannot be helped; but that's for another blog.

however, there is one aspect of your routine that i can offer you some assurance on . . . your eye shadow! i would hear all the time about how a woman's shadow will crease or fade by the end of the day. it's one thing to touch up lips or powder, but no one wants to redo their shadow. this is especially an issue if you use eye cream on the lids in the morning. and i'm not saying that you shouldn't; everyone, and i mean everyone should wear an eye cream! though you should concentrate your eye cream underneath the eyes both morning and night, it could be beneficial to skip the lid in the a.m. and only apply underneath – saving the lid to be moisturized in the evening. this is particularly helpful if you tend to be a little oilier in that area. i will stress for those over 40 to moisturize the entire eye area both morning and night. and please, no more than a pearl-sized drop per eye! it is also important to recognize that the eye area will resist absorption a little more than the rest of the face. so it may be helpful to wait about 15 minutes before applying color to the eye area. take this time to make some coffee, dry your hair, have breakfast . . . whatever.

one of my must-have products is shadow base. now, i realize a lot of women out there are using their foundation for this purpose. i highly recommend against doing this. it will crease on you. it's not designed for the lids, so don't put it there. more than a few companies make this product, but for the money you cannot beat clinique's touch base. it's perfect! canvas is my go-to color for most skin tones, but they also make a lighter version. it's nude and matte, and a little goes a long way. finger application is the preferred method, just make sure you go from the lash line all the way up to the brow.

start out with working a little product from the corner of the eye, then over the lid and upwards toward the brow using short strokes and being careful not to pull or tug the skin forcefully. the eye area is thin and delicate and the first place to show signs of aging. use your ring finger – it's the weakest. another benefit of shadow base is coverage. some women with visible veins in the lid will appreciate how a base will conceal imperfections and give a nice, smooth canvas to work with. most importantly, it gives your shadow something to adhere to. then apply your shadow as you normally would. i typically like to begin with a dusting of a light shadow all over the lid for an everyday look. this helps to "set" the base. and trust me, do not be fooled into thinking that you do not need any type of powdered product to set your shadow base. you most definitely do. if you choose to wear your base sans a powder shadow over the top, it will crease on you. i have seen makeup trends that showcase a "shiny" or "wet" shadow, but it will only look like that for about an hour . . . at best. that look is great for runway or photo shoots, but unless you do either of those for a living, get over it.

there are other shades available in the touch base, including a couple with a little shimmer. up-lighting has been a top-seller for many years, and it's beautiful on a deeper skin tone, or for a smoky base on a fairer skin tone. i also like to use these different shades under different shadows to give a new look to the shadow on top. but i have to suggest that women of a certain age, with a tad more "crepe-y-ness" to deal with, should steer clear of shimmering shadows. (and you know who you are . . . i hope.) all it does is put a spotlight on that dry, lined, droopy lid!

i'm positive that once you have experienced the benefits of using a shadow base, you will never even think about applying shadow without it! it will even help your eyeliner wear all day long! since the product should last you several months, my personal tip for shadow base is to store the container in a cool, dry place upside down! of course, ensure that the lid is tightly closed, but storing it upside down traps the moisture close to the product and helps to keep it from drying out.

give pink a chance

oh bobbi, you make the best stuff indeed! i love your colors, your style, your sensibility!

ladies, take note; if you want functional, practical and classic beauty, look no further than your local bobbi brown counter. even those of you less fortunate with no access to a counter can easily shop online and never worry about getting the wrong shade or a product you'll never use. it simply cannot happen!

of my bobbi products i want to talk about today, this item can make or break your entire makeup job . . . i'm talking about blush. i don't understand how women can overlook this one thing that can literally make you look instantly healthier, fresher, prettier and even younger! i'm not suggesting a big 'ole clown spot of "rouge" smeared on the face, or even that dated '80's "streak" of shimmering plum that seems to reach from the nose up towards the heavens.

blush looks best when applied to the apples of the cheeks and gently swept back so that the majority of the color stays at the apples, yet blends outward. not up to the temples, not down towards the neck. i realize bobbi's blushes may look slightly intimidating at first glance, but not to fear – they look amazing on the skin! some of you may be immediately drawn to those "safe" brown tones or paler mauves, but a little swipe of the brightest of the bunch can make you look like you've spent a week relaxing at a spa! bobbi is big on the "pop of color," and in my experience i couldn't agree more. once you see what it can do for your overall look, you'll feel naked without it.

my absolute personal fave is pale pink. i cannot gush any more about this color! it's simply perfect. most very fair to moderate skin-toned women can wear this blush flawlessly. it's completely buildable, so a very fair complexion may like to use a fluffier brush and a lighter hand, while a darker skin tone can achieve that "glow" with a little heavier application. in the same color family, for a darker skin tone, i may suggest soft pink or peony for a brighter pop.

if pink isn't your thing, (but it could be if you just gave it a chance!) a fairer, warmer skin tone does well with nectar. for those with a little deeper, or olive skin tone, i love apricot for that terrific pop. but those with the deepest of skin tones, don't despair! try poppy or even cranberry if you can handle it!

now i didn't forget all those yummy creamy pot rouges! i love them too! my favorite pale pink is featured as a pot rouge as well, and the color translates wonderfully from its powder counterpart. pot rouge is terrific for a drier skin, as powder can sometimes amplify dryness and fine lines. i prefer to apply my pot rouge with my foundation brush, but fingers work fine, too. i do not suggest a sponge – it's just wasteful and the application leaves much to be desired. pot rouge can also serve as a lip color, but in my experience it can leave you feeling a little parched after a while. it works better as a stain with a gloss over the top.

my personal tip on blush: if you're going to wear a bronzer, sweep it on first then finish with a "pop" of a brighter blush on the apples of the cheeks. for pot rouge wearers: mix a gel bronzer in with moisturizer or foundation, then apply pot rouge and finish with a face powder if desired.